First off, while I am good at selling computers, Im not so good at audio. I don't know much about things but I have put my system together out of neccessity. I have gotten the audio bug so I have had a few parts put in my car in a stereo shop or two. I need advice on how to setup my new amp.
This is my system:
SE with PP
HU:2006 JVC KD-DV4200
Door:Alpine SPS171A 6.5s and tweets
Deck:Eclipse SE8365 3way 6.5s
I recently got a Eclipse PA5422 3-2-1 4 channel amp rated 120x4 RMS at 2ohms 13.8v.
What will happen when I put it with my speakers? Will the SE audio cause interferance, and what kind of wiring guage do I need. And will it sound great when I am done?
I am probably going to get a shop to do this, but I would like to know what to ask for exactly and what to tell them to take care in doing especially. Also I would like to know how I can attach a sub to this.
.I wanna say utter trash just cuz it sounds the coolest I woulda gone with anything but the Type S Alpines though.. ebay has the R's and X's for so cheap now.
.I completely agree. My friend has the s 5 1/4 2 ways in his deck and the 5 1/4 R components in the fronts. There is NO comparison. On XM comedy you can barely understand the voices with the S's turned up, but when you back them down, it is much MUCH easier to understand the comedians. That right there is why a better speaker makes a HUGE difference. Other than that your setup sounds pretty decent, but 120 wpc at 2 ohms is not very much power. I am not familiar with Eclipse speakers, but it should be enough power. It's not enough power for my Quarts, but you should be ok.
Se audio cause interference? I am not sure how. Since you will be running new wires to each speaker and get the input from your aftermarket deck, I highly doubt you will be using anything stock at that point.
I recommend getting the right wire to begin with. Kinda like the mod-bug, tghe audio-bug is always persistent and you will probably upgrade again. So I would go with at least 4 gauge, the price on e-bay is not much different between 4 and 8, and use a distribution block if the amp cannot accept 4 gauge inputs. Plus, if you buy a sub, you know you will have enough juice for a decent sub-amp. Others might recommend 0 gauge, but I have never had the need and I have 3 large amps in my car and 2 eq's. The choice is yours on that one.
Just my 2 cents.
.
Originally Posted by IcejonFirst off, while I am good at selling computers, Im not so good at audio. I don't know much about things but I have put my system together out of neccessity. I have gotten the audio bug so I have had a few parts put in my car in a stereo shop or two. I need advice on how to setup my new amp.
This is my system:
SE with PP
HU:2006 JVC KD-DV4200
Door:Alpine SPS171A 6.5s and tweets
Deck:Eclipse SE8365 3way 6.5s
I recently got a Eclipse PA5422 3-2-1 4 channel amp rated 120x4 RMS at 2ohms 13.8v.
What will happen when I put it with my speakers? Will the SE audio cause interferance, and what kind of wiring guage do I need. And will it sound great when I am done?
I am probably going to get a shop to do this, but I would like to know what to ask for exactly and what to tell them to take care in doing especially. Also I would like to know how I can attach a sub to this.
Just an FYI, you should put the eclipse 3ways in the front, there is no need for them in the rear (3 ways with tweeters in the front are the *****!). You will have to look at the owners manual or search online to see what the speakers are rated at. I'm guessing your speakers are 4-ohm and you need to get that 2-ohm amp rating out of the equation. Look up the 4-ohm ratings. Make sure the speakers are rated at or higher than your amp. This is if you just want to hook up the amp to 4 channels to the speakers, if you want a sub too...
Now, without going into LOTS of detail, you really need to go to a shop. You have a 2-ohm stable amp that you can use for a good few years with no problems. You can hook up all 6 speaker (I'm guessing the components have crossovers) to 2 channels, then use the last 2 channels bridged to a D4 sub that should see about 250watts rms. Infinity Perfect 10 in a nice sealed box would tide you over well, even the Alpine subs, just to use the same brand as your components. If you understood this last paragraph, you should install the amp yourself, if you don't know what I'm talking about, go to a shop or get a friend to do it.
.Oh, and why on the poll are you asking about equalizers? Did you mean your amp, or did I mis-read?
.Well my amp is 85x4 at 4ohm... I like eclipse but I cant find a place down here that has them in and at a good price. I had the eclipse in the doors but I thought components were better, and I wanted a component set to replace just speakers in the front. So I got SPS171 instead and I needed a component system so I could replace the tweeters in the pillars I have. The reason im asking about amps is because I got a PA5422 amp for 138 bucks used for a few months. So I am itching to put it in and see if it works perfectly. Did I get a good deal on that eclipse amp? Also are there any companies that make a subwoofer box that is quot;stealthquot; meaning it fits right up to the back seats under the deck and maximizes trunk space, I am talking about maybe only 7-8 inches deep. I just dont like the idea of a cube subwoofer rocking around in the trunk collapsing my false floor. What is a good 10 inch amp thats around $50-75 and name brand. How do I get rid of the distortion, I listen to techno and my HU can put out okay sound but when it booms the factory 6quot; sub in the deck sounds horrible. How do I gimp it so I just hear the speakers. EQ = equipment
.yank the cord out of that 6quot; sub in the deck. the end.
.You are crazy! That will work though.
I would suggest a sub with a slot port. Look on ebay to get ideas (search sub box slot port). They do make some that are wider, and not quot;boxyquot;. Also a truck sub box would be good. But, there are many options out there. You have a good starting point by coming here and asking before going into a car stereo shop and have them sell you just about anything they carry. Do more research (search old b15 forum posts).
Also, with the eclipse 3-ways, you don't HAVE to keep the component speakers together, they aren't glued. You can use the 6.5's type S and move them to the back, and move the eclipse 3-ways to the front and run them off of the crossover, while hooking the type S up in the rear deck (just for fill) like any regular speakers.
.
Originally Posted by IcejonWell my amp is 85x4 at 4ohm... I like eclipse but I cant find a place down here that has them in and at a good price. I had the eclipse in the doors but I thought components were better, and I wanted a component set to replace just speakers in the front. So I got SPS171 instead and I needed a component system so I could replace the tweeters in the pillars I have. The reason im asking about amps is because I got a PA5422 amp for 138 bucks used for a few months. So I am itching to put it in and see if it works perfectly. Did I get a good deal on that eclipse amp? Also are there any companies that make a subwoofer box that is quot;stealthquot; meaning it fits right up to the back seats under the deck and maximizes trunk space, I am talking about maybe only 7-8 inches deep. I just dont like the idea of a cube subwoofer rocking around in the trunk collapsing my false floor. What is a good 10 inch amp thats around $50-75 and name brand. How do I get rid of the distortion, I listen to techno and my HU can put out okay sound but when it booms the factory 6quot; sub in the deck sounds horrible. How do I gimp it so I just hear the speakers. EQ = equipment
First, the type S's are probably better than the eclipses. I have not heard them, but I would bet that they are much higher quality. Having the tweets in the pillars helps for imaging because people's legs do not block the sound as much. My Quarts are almost transparent in the stock locations. 85 wpc is VERY decent. More clean power is ALWAYS better than less power, since clipping is usually introduced. Speakers blow from clipped power much more than too much clean power. I push 186 watts to a Quart tweet that is a 100 RMS rating and have not blown them. I push my sh(t hard! They might not even top 100 with my settings, but at least I know that they will never clip. They will probably melt someday, but they are still going strong as we speak.
Never, NEVER put more than one full-range speaker on a single input. Even if the amp can handle a two ohm load, four ohms has much more clarity. Clarity is the reason for the upgrade.....right? You could try it, but I would not recommend it. You have enough power the way you are. Plus, speakers are rated 4 ohms as an average. Resistance is not a constant, that is why the say nominal in the ratings. Tweeters go up in ohms the higher the frequency, which is why it is tough to hear triangles at full volume (sometimes). Woofers go down in ohms so your current speakers might be 1 ohm in spots. Don't oveload the amp, it sounds like a decent one. Good buy!
Throw the factory sub away. It is probably the reason for your muddy sound to begin with. I know mine was the biggest pile of donkey sh(t I have ever heard. Stock GM speakers have twice the sound. Just disconnect it and tune your current speakers in. Then reconnect it after a few days and you will be able to tell for yourself.
When you tune the amp, use one of your songs with the most bass and turn the subsonic filter to ~30 - 40. This will take away the bass that your speakers can't handle in the first place. Then turn the high pass all the way to 120 and the head unit to the volume you want it to be, if it does not distort too much, and turn the high-pass filter down until you hear distortion. Once you start to hear a little distortion, turn it up just a little to be on the safe side. This way you should get great quality at high volumes and be a little more on the safe side. Add a sub if you don't have enough response, which I am sure you won't. Too many people blow speakers from too much bass, and the amps clip.
As for subs, there are a ton of options. You could easily by an 8quot;, put it in a sealed box and not lose much space. Some 8quot; subs pound very well. If space is a concern go with a high-quality 8. Plus you can always secure the box to a bolt on both sides of the trunk. Buy a couple of duct-work hangers at your hardware store (because you can bend them quite a bit) and bolt them right to the box. It is not that hard to do, and it works pretty well.
Just my 2 cents and good luck.
Edit: If you decide to use your current amp to power a sub (it can do this very effectively and is designed for it) amp the components with 2 channels and bridge the other two for the sub. Don't put 4 speakers on two outputs, power the rears with the deck (headunit). You don't need much power for those anyway.
.More information. I went to this shop in Florida where I was from and they were a big eclipse dealer and got my front doors put in since I left my top open in the top of a parkinglot and my speaker/factory HU were ruined by rain. So I managed to cheap together a DVD system. I spent like 350 on ebay, got a faranheit 5.6quot; screen new with no remote for like 100. I found the remote, (the only way to turn the screen on!) on ebay to my luck selling by itself. So I had a 5.6quot; screen in the bin a faranheit dvd/mpeg/mp3 player to power it. It worked great for a year, then after my car trip to Los Angeles from Florida (15 hour driving shifts, techno and God saved me from horrible wreck).
My HU crapped out and stopped reading CD/DVD. Never buy cheap dvd all in ones, they come from China and are SO ghetto. My old faranheit which I considered a decent brand had no auto am/fm memory or self tune, no ID3 tag support, no mp3 resume after power off. ITs only redeeming factor is that it could play mpeg 2 files ( i had lotsa music videos ). I installed all of that myself, and since I put it in I had interference noise always because I think the cables were a mess and I didnt ground it at all. So I was determined to get my new HU put in by a shop in CA so I wouldn't have interference as well as I had a new job which didnt give me time. So I went on Ebay and found a quot;stealquot; and Innovatek dvd-393 which on paper sounds pretty cool. USB Flash and HD support, SD card slot, MP4, MP3, DIVX, ID3 tags, LCD, Auto tuning am/fm, Region free, yadda yadda. So I found it on ebay for 170 shipped and picked it up. The company is MP3playerstore and they are bad to buy from, they shipped fast but their reseller ratings is less than zero. SO I got it, and I was excited and had the shop put it in during lunch. I got a call back from them telling me that it didn't work. SO I came over there and checked it out, the thing had the same problem out of the box as my 1 year old faranheit from China: It don't read disks! So I got so mad I had to call the store in canada to return it, no emails replied to after 5 times. So I got an RMA finally and I have my fingers crossed that they will give me a full refund minus shipping of course. If they charge me restock don't ever buy from them.
So I found my current JVC from Ebay local and got it, its new for 2006 and does everything I want except it doesnt seem to read mpeg files. It has a great jukebox feature. The only problem is that my Ebay luck didn't smile again. I ended up buying it Canadian quot;grey marketquot; so my warrantee card in the box is worthless in USA. Oh well, moral is be really careful on EBay, stats arent everything, and sometimes buying something local for 50-100 more is worth it since now that I am a real worker, my hours wasted in frustration is money too!
Oh one last question for the board, How do I anchor my screen in the top bin while keeping it able to be put back for protection against opportunity theft. I currently use 4 tabs of industrial velcro on the bottom of the screen and the top of the lip of the bin. It gets weak since the sun melts it and usually falls off. Can I use neodymn magnets so close to the LCD? Or are there any RC or tiny parts I can use to make it nice?
.Not sure about how to anchor it, but PLEASE DON'T PUT ANY TYPE OF MAGNET NEAR THE LCD SCREEN. |
Post at 2011-5-24 08:12
| This Author's Posts Only
